Vintage Threads - Katherine Hepburn Mid-Rise Waistlines

Hepburn often sported a mid-rise
waistline - a very 30's look

I've been exploring waistlines off and on since early last month. I started with thoughts on no waistlines, then moved into under-bust waistlines. I've also included some elements of fashion history. 

Now I'm moving on down to think about mid-rise waistlines, those that occur between the under-bust (like Empire style dresses) and the natural waistline (like those on "New Look" bouffant skirts).  

You see the mid-rise waistline at several times in history. Some of my favorite are those sported by Katherine Hepburn. The timeless striped dress she wore in "Bringing up Baby" had a mid-rise waistline. I journaled about that dress back in a discussion of vintage godets - the Bringing Up Baby post

Of course Hepburn wore this waistline frequently because it was what was in style, however I also think it flattered her slim-hipped figure. For women who don't go out much in the hip area, this look lengthens the body. It also shows off the leg line. Hepburn had a very active style about her. Indeed she was quite active, and liked to get a lot of exercise. Her mid-rise waistlines make the most of her quick style of movement.

I don't have Katherine Hepburn's slender figure, but I do share one trait with her. I don't curve out much in the hip area. I noticed when I worked on fitting my first pair of jeans, that a high-rise waistband is flattering for me. As I'm working on my first complete (and final) garment assignment for draping class, I'm paying very close attention to where I'm defining the waistline. I've marked both a traditional and a mid-rise waistline on my custom dress form, and I keep experimenting with where to define the dress waistline.

No matter where I draw the waist's line, considering and placing it to best suit my own figure is the kind of project that keeps me...

Enchanted by Sewing!

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Resources

Vintage Threads - Bringing Up Baby - Katherine Hepburn's striped dress with godets http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/11/vintage-threads-katherine-hepburn-in.html


Enchanted By Sewing Audio Podcast - Creating my own Dress Forms http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/09/ench-by-sew-12-creating-dress-forms.html

My first pair of jeans, created as the final project for my pants drafting class,  have a mid-rise waistline http://www.meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/10/jean-sewing-my-first-jeans-are.html

Waistlines: Greek Revival in the English Regency (time travel)

Lady Selina Meade
Painted by Lawrence

Continuing thoughts on designing and sewing waistlines

Dramatic changes in society

An artful focus on music, poetry, and classic Greek lines

High-waisted frocks...

A little English Regency time travel is always in order.

What time travel method would carry us back to the days of Jane Austen, The Peninsular War,  Beau Brummell, and his well-fleshed friend The Prince Regent ?  A little fiddling with something neoclassical maybe... A bust of Socrates? An enameled snuffbox, perhaps? Or better yet,  a high perch phaeton, driven by a dashing female!

The Perfect Time Travel Method
back to the English Regency

Such changes in ladies fashion in this early part of the nineteenth century! One older dame complains, "I'd look fine with my skirt up under my armpits like you young gels!" 

No more immensely stiff, mid-waisted, Georgian skirts in weighty brocades. The Empress Josephine's doing it across the channel in France, so why not here? It's floaty, airy high waisted gowns these days. 

So drape your lightest muslins up just under the bust line and come along with me. 

Creating a fairy-like, neoclassic inspired frock for a time travel trip like this is the sort of thing that keeps me.... 

Enchanted by Sewing

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Regency Resources

Georgette Heyer was the spark that lit the craze for Regency Romance fiction and did that lady ever know her era! She had collections of the ladies journals that her heroines read, and her stories include every elaborate detail of the toilettes of the day. To step into a Georgette Heyer novel is to step into romantic adventure, complete to a shade (as one of her books denizens would have proclaimed) with the beautiful fashions of the day.

Waistlines:Inspired by the Classics - Time Travel to the Italian Renaissance

The Combat of Love and Chastity

If I'd been an all around, well educated, know-it all Renaissance women, an uomo universale  (the modern term is a polymath), I bet I'd have been dreaming in Greek - in my Greek-inspired, just-below-the-bustline waistlines that is!

The Renaissance , or rebirth, was about fifteenth and sixteenth century Italians dreaming about being reborn - as imaginary Greeks. Men and women of this era (at least those who could afford the luxury of being well educated) prided themselves on their breadth of knowledge in the arts and sciences - music, conversation, mathematics, machines, equipment, painting, architecture, books, languages, and what else..... or yeah, the art of warfare.

I'm pretty sure that if I travelled back through time to sometime in the sixteenth century, I'd have been particularly caught up in the excitement over the creation of new technology. And it seems to me that the creation of a telescope would have provided me with much of the same pleasure as my modern times enthusiasm for software development.

But I wouldn't have been crouching over my design table all day long. After all  I would have been an uomo universale, 
a woman capable of engaging in and demonstrating many accomplishments.

Whilst singing and playing my viola or lute (always with a fine air of

Woman Playing the Viola, Solario

sprezzatura),  bandying over the significance of the positions of the constellations with a fellow courtier ("But look at Mars through my new telescope Andrea!"), and planning the next poetic verse in my current composition, I'm pretty sure  I'd also have been hard at work on another mental composition, a gown inspired, of course, by my supposed Grecian roots*. I might have already been wearing something that took me back to those times past,   something with a twisted shoulder element perhaps, like the one in Solario's painting of a musician.

Chaste Women in a Landscape

While I was fiddling, singing and discoursing among my fellows,  I would have been contemplating the creation of a dress with a substantial dose of color. My classical interests would go for something with simple, fluid lines. No fussy necklines or over embellishment for my gown. It would speak for itself in the way it flowed from a high waistline set just below the bust, creating long lines of naturally occurring seamless folds over the body,  in hues of russet or red. In cooler weather I might pair it with a cloak of deep forest green.

Whether it was dress design or a new ability to view the heavens, I'd have been stretching my interests just as far afield back in the sixteenth century, as I do today. 

You know, it's time travel like this that keeps me...

Enchanted by Sewing!

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Thank you for sponsoring the regular work of this sewing journal site, and the Enchanted by Sewing Podcast when you buy products linked from this page!

"Prince of Foxes", set in the Italian Renaissance, is one of my all time favorite movies. It's based on a classic Samuel Shellabarger novel of the same name.  The movie is adventurous and romantic. The costumes are historically accurate and gorgeous.

* Of course women's position in Greek society didn't tend towards the well educated. These gals tended to be more like domestic appurtenances with no equal standing alongside the boys. A well-educated, monied Renaissance women could hope for a lot more when it came to society, education and an attitude of respect from her menfolk.

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Resources

Uomo Universale/The Polymath

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymath
http://alexpetrov.com/memes/hum/renaissance-man.html

Part 5: Cradle Songs and Distant Melodies, The Highwayman's Daughter

part 5: The Highwayman’s Daughter

“So we can do a touch now … as well as you grand gentlemen on the high toby.”—Boldrewood: Robbery under Arms, chap. xxvi.

Back in Ireland Dolly had not been old enough to question the source of the sparkling coins that had filled her Da’s pockets. She had one vague memory of a time when Mam fed Dolly and Owen their supper early, then flitted back and forth to the door in a constant state of agitation. Even thought she was quite a little girl, only four perhaps, Dolly had known that something wasn’t quite right.

Later, tucked up beneath a pile of quilts, she’d woken to a small explosion as the door banged open. Fion MacLiam had burst in laughing and calling to his wife. Peeking around the blanket that hung from the ceiling to separate the cot where she and her brother slept, from the rest of the tiny house, she’d seen Da pouring a stream of golden guineas into his wife’s hands. But Mam was not looking at the coins. 

“I thought you’d been taken, Fionn!” Her voice was thick with unshed tears.

“It would take a brave legion of muskro to capture your man, Rudju.

That was all there was to the memory. She must have gone back to sleep. Dolly often wished she could recall more of her mother, beyond that once scene and some snatches of a song about a highwayman.

Mam had died on the boat to America, and the tiny baby she carried inside her had gone with her. That left the sole care of Dolly and her little brother to Fionn. It had been no easy feat for Da to get work in the great city where they landed. And it had been even harder for a man burdened with two small children. There had been attempts to find a woman to care for them, and even one horrible day when he left the six year old girl to care for small Owen alone. He had returned after a long day of backbreaking labor, to find them shaking with fear from fighting off the rats that had invaded the tenement room and hiding from the drunkard next door, who’d pounded on their door after knocking down his wife.

Fion had sat holding his children on his knee, close to his heart for a long while and then he’d packed their few possessions and the three of them had left the filthy little room behind, and headed off to follow the footpath out of town. Da was not only a tender-hearted man he was no fool. His children would never survive city life without two parents.


Next Time: The High Toby


Listen to this entire story in the April Edition of "Unpolished Performances", a free podcast in the iTunes Store. Download it by clicking on this link.