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Saturday, April 11, 2015

STRAIGHT SKIRT: Parlez Vous French Pattern Drafting - Moulage Class Pay Off

The first of three skirt drafts, I leaned about in the French Pattern Drafting/Moulage class I took from Lynda Maynard.

To create a straight skirt from a sloper. This example shows a back sloper. The changes are the same for both front and back.

First, trace a new copy of each sloper piece, back and front,  on your pattern paper of choice.

Second, Cut away above* the Waist Balance Line
*Leave some seam allowance above that waist balance line. You may want to face the skirt waist or you may want to add a waistband. Better to leave a little extra for now....

Third, Extend down 26"** from the Waist Balance Line at Center Front 
** 26" was suggested by Lynda, maybe a longer or shorter length works for you. Play around with your muslin version. I measured a knee length skirt I made last summer, and this length was about right for me.
Fourth, Extend out 3/4 of an inch from the side seam at the hem
And Finally grade back up from the extended hem to the full hem balance line. If you (instead) draw the side seam straight, the skirt will read as a pegged skirt and not a straight skirt line.