Sewing Some California Romance (Vogue 8810)

My daughter graduated from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo last weekend, and I sewed to celebrate!

I first made Vogue 8810 in a straight skirt, no sleeve variation (You can see the black and white houndstooth version I made last summer in my Romancing the Dress posting). I like the simple lines of this frock pattern, which work when I want to get a little bit dressed up, but also don't get in my way when I hop on my bike and pedal off to chorus, or walk downtown for groceries.

This is my California Romance version of the pattern. I was crazy about this poppy trim when I found it at Brittex not too many months back. Now how could I use it? Hey, nothing like shopping my fabric inventory!! This light weight plaid shirting fabric worked well. To give this fabric sufficient clout for a dress, I used rayon beneath, interlining the bodice and sewing a full slip beneath the skirt.

Once more I didn't use the drawstring waist that came with the pattern. My friend Susan worked hard to alter the bodice, fitting the shoulders better and adding long diagonal darts I like a lot. I had meant to wear this with my favorite brown leather belt but the bias cut skirts just looked wrong with that belt. It was bunchy and unattractive at the waist when I tried on the belt. Instead I sewed on a piece of wide black elastic that didn't go all the way around to meet in the front and then sewed that CA poppy trim from Brittex

So happy I found a use for my
CA poppy trim

on top of that, just buttoning it at the side with this pretty green button. The front then hangs flat on me, which works better with what the pattern designer was going for.

Interpreting the romance of my life in California in the clothes I wear, keeps me enchanted by sewing!

Laurel Loves London (PODCAST - Enchanted by Sewing)

Co-Published with MeEncantaCoser/Enchanted By Sewing

Laurel Love's London's Liberty

Hey, the June 2013 "Enchanted By Sewing" Podcast is available in the pod-o-sphere!

You can listen to the show right on the web by clicking on this link. Or, download this podcast free from iTunes, to play on your favorite mobile device/mp3 player (like an iPhone or an Android), by clicking on this link to iTunes.

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Did I miss any links? If so, please post here and let me know, or else email me at,  EnchantedBySewing AT gmail
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London's got what a sewist yearns for, historically inspired fabric and fashion, not to mention the regular inspirations we bring back from vacation tripping in an historically rich area. When this California sewist vacations in London she does more than promenade along the Thames. She visits historic Liberty to buy soft delicate Tana Lawn fabric and the Victoria and Albert to study historic fashion. She also looks both ways before she crosses the street (cuz she can never remember which way the traffic flows) to check out street fashion.
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I prepped for travel to London by sewing

• http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/05/el-debut-my-pearly-wannabe-jacket.html

• http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/06/sewing-for-travel-butterick-5526.html

In the 'cast I talked about the hand sewing I took alongfor plane and train- a buttercup purse. I've loved sewing many MadeByRae's buttercup purses. Busy sewing my CA Romance Dress (yes it's done! the posting will be out in a few days on my MeEncantaCoser blog), I haven't yet finished the purse strap, though I finished the rest of the sewing and embellishment on the trip.

Here's my detail showing a few of the buttercup purses I've made in the past, and more info about accessing the free pattern. I wrote this when I was prepping my bluebird buttercup purse http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2012/09/do-you-love-butter-in-praise-of.html

Here's something more about the vintage tatting I added to the finished purse http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2012/09/tit-fortatting-embellishing-my.html

Fashion Fabric Buying in London 

• http://meencantacoser.blogspot.com/2013/06/lovin-londons-liberty-fabric-shopping.html

http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2012/05/fabric-shopping-in-london.html

Liberty's Tana Lawn
Poppy and Honesty on the left, Strawberry Thief, right

Historical Fashion Inspiration in London

Victoria and Albert (V&A )  

      Search the V&A Collection http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/t/the-collections/

      V&A organizes beautiful stuff by design styles http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/d/decorative-and-design-styles/

http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/exhibitions/in-fine-style-the-art-of-tudor-and-stuart-fashion-QGBP

In a London Mood

• I like the book...Shopping, Seduction & Mr. Selfridge by Lindy Woodhead as much as I like the show "Mr. Selfridge" I've been watching on PBS 

• D.E. Stevenson is a classic British author who wrote traditional women's novels for about 30 years. If you're unused to old style class and racial label references however, you may be surprised by some of the attitudes that this author sometimes expressed so casually. Does it reflect attitudes among the power structure of the time? You bet it does.

• Other classic British Authors include: Dorothy Sayers, Agatha Christie and M.C. Beaton (modern)

Travel Thoughts

• Portobello Market in the Notthinghill area, is a popular shopping spot, especially on Saturday's when many small vendors have booths. On many other days you can still buy good produce there

• We've rented flats short-term in London on several trips, usually for a week through A Place Like Home http://www.aplacelikehome.co.uk
• Contours Walking Holidays setup our walking trip along the coast in Cornwall . They make reservations at B&B's, arrange for our luggage to be sent from place to the next, and gave us directions and an itinerary. We did the walking and self-guiding. http://www.contours.co.uk/walking-holidays/south-west.php We used another agency Mickledore two years ago when we walked for three days along Hadrian's Wall and were very happy with them. Mickledore doesn't do trips in Cornwall however. http://www.mickledore.co.uk/walking-holidays/hadrians_wall?gclid=CIDjsZ2k77cCFSeCQgodV3YAyA

Traveling Light - It's all Relative :-) (Historical Tripping in London)

Frances Stuart
Duchess of Richmond
by Sir Peter Leley

Inspired by a recent trip to the U.K.

Want to hear more about London through my sewists eyes? Listen in (download to an mp3 device or listen directly on the web) to the June episode of the Enchanted by Sewing podcast Laurel Loves London.

After returning from a two week trip to London and Cornwall , I was thinking about the challenges of packing light. No matter how hard I try to plan in advance I slip too many things in the bag at the last minute. In the case of this last trip, we needed a bigger bag for trekking poles (without which I could not have survived the challenging footing on the coastal trail of Cornwall), which gave me a larger suitcase.

Oh dear, that was a mistake! I just located a universal packing list planner at http://upl.codeq.info, but frankly I think it would just have caused me to put in more stuff than I did. However, I think I can give myself points when I consider the practicality of the garments I did put in.

Bet you dollars to doughnuts that this gal, Frances Stuart (she was also a Duchess of Richmond),  was a much worse packer than I am!

Like... do you think this outfit goes with everything else in her suitcase? Could she use it as a substitute for a raincoat? If she washed it out in the bathroom sink in the hotel room, would you guess it would be dry by morning? Not to mention I'm guessing her beauty and hygiene bag (my husband calls it a 'ditty' bag) was fuller than mine.

So... I'm feeling like a pretty savy traveller right now.

Sewing for Travel (Butterick 5526)

I sewed Butterick 5526 again for my recent trip to London. It was very practical, and pretty, when worn with a pair of black cropped linen pants I made for the same trip. They are the same tried and true pattern I used for these tan cropped linen pants. 

I took this shirt along on another trip, on our recent weekend down to my daughter's graduation from Cal Poly (San Luis Obispo). All the hotels around the area require a two night minimum stay (Can you blame an area whose economy is heavily dependent on tourism for this requirement on high demand weekends? I don't.) This shirt went along to the beach and on to winery tasting on Saturday. I wore my newly finished CA Romance dress for the ceremony on Sunday.

This is a great pattern. I love the shape of the hem and the curved side seams. Thanks again to my sewing buddy Susan for all her work altering this pattern to give me a great fit! And of course we weren't the only people to find that the sleeves may be too tight as originally designed (see my links in detailed posting to Pattern Review). Nothing beats a muslin!

I previously sewed and wrote more about my experiences sewing this shirt, in my posting about sewing my No. 1 Ladie's Detective Agency shirt.

Inspired by London (historical fashion)

On my recent trip to London I hopped the tube over to The Queen's Gallery at Buckingham Palace, to take in the exhibit, In Fine Style, The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion (if you're headed to London yourself that show is on through October of this year).

Sure the wealthy ladies and gentlemen in the exhibits portraits indulged in a lot of intricate garments that aren't practical today (nor were they then, for regular folks), but they still inspire plenty of details that do more than just make me utter a long drawn out romantic sigh. They give me ideas for my modern sewing projects.

Here Mary of Modena (a Duchess of York in the late 17'th century) wears a lovely riding habit. Although the lace at her neck may have been unaffordable for the majority of the population, I bet the beautiful hang of her sleeve inspired many a delicate blouse or shirt among the less monied people she encountered. Many of us might still enjoy stitching up a poet shirt with similar drippy hanging sleeves, perhaps in a soft white cotton batiste?

What do you think about her color scheme? I'm pretty partial to the way the soft peach in her turned back jacket sleeve and lining, picks up the brown tones in the primary fabric. A modern day vest (think waistcoat in the U.K. of course) or jacket sewn in an embossed print with a peachy lining would be a beauty!

My very favorite detail in this habit, is the welt pocket. It caught my attention the minute I spied the portrait. Though I think of a welt as being a subtle little detail, her ladyship's mantua maker drew everyone's eye to this practical little pocket, by displaying the lining and not hiding the opening with the welting strip I associate with this feature. (So does this really count as a welt pocket? No matter, it plays the same function in the garment.) She highlighted the pocket even more by embellishing it with an oval of the same carmel/honey colored buttons that would nicely suit our modern jacket or waistcoat. This gorgeous opening also looks to be farther down the hip than we might typically find it, but oh so practical for our spare change, or the handkerchief many of us still carry there, just as Mary very likely did.

Historical Inspiration keeps me enchanted by sewing!

Impressions of Morro Bay Harbor (San Luis Obispo County)

The Fishing Fleet
L.R. Shimer

Please click on the illustration above for a deeper impression

Lovin' London's Liberty (Fabric Shopping in England)

Co-Published with MeEncantaCoser/Enchanted By Sewing

Just back from a trip to England. I started out my week in London visiting Liberty to buy lengths of Tana Lawn fabric for two shirts (At 20 pounds a metre that was pretty much my whole souvenir budget! ). What a pleasure to visit this store with all it's beautiful things! 

Arthur Liberty first opened this wonderful store in 1885 to sell gorgeous imported products associated with the Aesthetic Movement. There's been a lot written about this store. Here's a history link from the store's page.

Tana Lawn, named after Lake Tana in the Sudan, is one of the delicate, gorgeous, high quality fabrics the store is known for. The material was created by Liberty. Color and pattern is carefully orchestrated to produce a quality product, and one I can't wait to start sewing. 

The orange and burgandy print on the left is Poppy and Honesty. The green print on the right is Strawberry Thief. The store calls them "classics" since they come from original William Morris designs, originally used in wallpaper and home dec weight (known in the U.K. as "soft furnishing") fabric.

There's a nice display of William Morris's role in the Arts and Crafts Movement, in the British Galleries at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. You can also search the Victoria and Albert collection (for free) online through their site. 

When I sew my William Morris fabric shirts, I'll be sewing up history. That's the kind of thing that keeps me... enchanted by sewing.