I dream of JeanSies (made of light blue denim)

I'm thinking of changing the refrain from that classic old song...

I dream of Jeannie with the light brown hair 

                                               Floating like a vapor on the soft, summer air. 

to

I'm dreaming of JEANSIES sewn from light blue denim

that float 'round my nether regions, like the light from heaven

This semester, and next, I'm focusing on sharpening my basic sewing skills. Those skills include the basics of pant construction. Sure, I've sewn many a pair of pants since my first bell-bottoms project back in high school, but being self-taught there are a lot of techniques I've glossed over. So in addition to basic Fashion 110 (*), the introductory sewing class where I'm learning things I never knew I didn't know about needles, thread, hems, stitch length, directional sewing, and.... (the list goes on and on), I also took the 4-session Pants Construction class. There I sewed sample fly front zippers, a variety of pockets and learned some new and improved waistband techniques. In addition to two pair of elastic waist pants for the introductory class, I've got a pair of light-weight denim pants in the works, that will incorporate my new and improved fly front zipper skills, front-hip pockets and a couture waistband in the style taught by our teacher Lynda Maynard (the directions are in her Couture Sewing book). I'm using the same McCalls pattern that I used for the 3 pairs of shorts I made this summer and fall. You can check out one pair (and their matching cap) in this posting, The Lady Wears Shorts.

Producing all these pants will add to my wardrobe, as well as improve my basic sewing skill set. But there's another sneaky reason for gaining confidence when it comes to sewing trousers. I really want to be able to sew my own jeans. 

Are you with me there? I've got a couple of different RTW jeans that kind of work for me, but not totally. I'm looking forward to the day when I can quit perusing the catalog pages trying to find jeans that sorta kinda work, and can just design and sew my own. Right off the bat I know I want one pair of the typical tough-denim, work horse old-school style (without this low-rise modern beeswax!) and a second more fitted, lighter weight denim. I also have some dreams that flit past different colored jeans (Can I find turquoise denim?) and back pockets with lace appliqués.

Clearly there are two important aspects to this long-term learning project. 

a) Fit

b) Technique

OK learning more about jean fabric weights and sources for various denims, and specialized notions like rivets, topstitching thread, needles, etc. might be a third aspect.

I'm not desperate to start in on this learning project, because I'm headed in the right direction. 

1) I'm honing my basic and intermediate sewing skills, so that I won't be caught up being challenged by something that has nothing to do with specialized jeans fitting and construction.

2)I'm starting to collect articles from the web relating to techniques needed for making jeans. I've just started a Pinterest board specifically related to sewing jeans, that I can come back to when I'm ready. (I've got a couple of other sewing boards in Pinterest as well, here's a link to all my boards there.)

Inspired by my school work, I'm planing to start a jeans notebook with technique samples once this semester is over in December. Aren't sewing program classes an excellent way to learn how to approach new-to-me kinds of garments? :-)

3) I bought the Sandra Betzina Vogue1034  jeans pattern ( Here's a pattern review for it, which doesn't seem to want to pin to my Pinterest boards). It has lots of tips about fitting jeans. I'm sure I'll ask for fitting help in the Sewing Lab at school as well. And down the road, there's a pants drafting class taught at Cañada each fall. I expect to already have some experience working on jeans by the time I take that class next year.

* I take sewing classes in the Cañada College Fashion Department, Redwood City, California

Romancing the Dress: Envisioning California Romance

Getting together the goods
For my California Romance Dress

I feel so successful about the black and off-white houndstooth dress I sewed last summer, from Vogue v8810, that I've begun planning my next version of this frock.

What really made this project a success?

1) I liked the look of the completed dress

PLUS

2) I've actually gotten in quite a lot of wearings.

The newest girl in my wardrobe will be made from this pattern and from this pretty plaid shirting and CA poppies trim (did you clue in on the significance of that California Romance name yet?). Since the fabric is  lighter than what's recommended for the pattern, I plan to interline the bodice to create a heavier fabric. Because I'll be making the fuller skirted version, I'm expecting the skirt zone to hold it's own. I may wear it with a half slip though.

I also plan to add a 3/4 sleeve - based on the full length, a more typical length for me, which makes me feel like I can really move around. I'll also include the inseam pockets - with a waistband leash - that I added to the pattern the last time I made it. I can't stand not having pockets. And, as I did last time, no bow-front casing. I'll wear it belted with a nice wide brown leather belt I already own. I'm going to spend a little time altering the bodice, probably taking it back a little bit at the shoulder seam in the front. I'm hoping to try that out with my buddy Susan in sewing lab this week.

This time I'm trying out the
full-skirted version of v8810
with an elbow, or just past sleeve,
Let's just hope I've got enough
material to match those plaids!

This dress represents my idea of real California Romance, a garment that's both practical and pretty for a life that's lived in the every day, not just in an imaginary no-fuss-minimal-movement environment that often seems to be represented by magazine models in high heels and no bike or public transit in sight. As a matter of fact I thought quite a lot about why dresses are important and what makes them work for me so that they can go beyond special-occasion and into my daily wardrobe, so much in fact that I devoted quite a bit of my October "Enchanted by Sewing" podcast  to the theme of Romancing the Dress. This second show in
this relatively new free podcast show series will be up in the iTunes store before the end of this month. You can search iTunes using the phrase "Enchanted by Sewing", or simply signup to receive email notifications of all new shows (no spam!) at the Show Notes site for Enchanted By Sewing.

Tee Time: Spidahhhh (Web).... Rose, I'm home again Rose!

Spidahhhh Web Rose, I'm home again Rose

Without a Sweetheart to My Name

Spidahhh Web Rose, how everyone knooooows,

 That I'm am

Hoping you're the same!

Sung to the tune of "Lyda Rose", of Music Man fame

  You know that song, don't you? 

Here's a great rendition on youTube 

I'm having a good time this evening, catching up on a few sewing journal photographs. I've been pretty busy sewing, and working on the October show for the Enchanted By Sewing Podcast * (not to mention school, work and domestic activities) that I'd gotten behind on displaying some of the pretty things I've created recently. 

It's a lot of fun getting a chance to show off. Personally, I never get tired of that.

I made this boxy tee from 100% cotton interlock knit. We all used the same Qwik Sew pattern, for our first project, in my Fashion 110 sewing at Cañada College. (Note the darts are not original to the pattern, but I wanted a little more shape in that zone.)  I usually sew more fitted tees and I wasn't in love with this tee, until I added the spider-web rose I learned about by watching a Hot Patterns youTube Video. Golly, they have a ton of great technique videos. Thanks Trudy and Jeremy!

It was lovely following through on one of my September goals (I'd mentioned wanting to try this embellishment out in the September Edition of the Enchanted By Sewing podcast), and even lovelier to find that the rose worked great. I've worn this tee quite a number of times since I finished it a few weeks back. 

Of course I've made rather a point of telling people about the embellishment whenever I get a chance. If I don't toot my own horn, who will?

Techniques: I followed Trudy's idea of the radius of 5 large stitches, weaving a rough strand of knit over and under around and around in a circle. However, though Trudy's roses seemed to work fine done loosely, and with (I believe she says) the big wheel of stitches left in place, I needed to do it a little differently. I think that is because I did a tighter, smaller rose. So, I hand stitched the rose (and it's tail - isn't that a darling addition?) in place - everywhere. 

Fabric Stability: Trudy did her spider web roses on the Hot Patterns Cabana tee shirt. I noticed that looked like it provided a kind of stable background for her roses. I got my rose-bearing-oomph from my deep hem. I cut it 3 inches deep (the original pattern has a 1 inch hem), and did 3 rows of stitching for a channel affect as well as some good body and stability.

* You can find this show by searching in the iTunes store using the phrase Enchanted By Sewing. I expect to finish up, and publish the second, October, episode, later this week. The show is monthly and garment themed. The September show was titled Tee Time. October will be Romancing the Dress.

Technicos/Techniques: Sewing a Fitted Facing

How to Sew a Fitted Facing to a Neckline

A facing is a piece of fabric that encloses the raw edge of a garment.  It is sewn to the raw edge and then turned to the backside of the garment. 1)   Cut Facing same shape as main garment edge it is used to face 2)   Cut a piece of interfacing the same size as the facing 3)   Trim ¼” from interfacing so smaller than actual facing, all the way around 4)   Fuse interfacing to wrong side (WS) of facing 5)   Stitch ¼” from lower edge of facing 6)   Roll under at stitching line, press under (stitching keeps you from burning your fingers!) 7)   Topstitch hem of facing, close to fold 8)   Sew Right Sides(RS) together - facing to the garment edge 9)   Grade and clip seam allowances (SA) - cut back the facing LOWER than the main garment edge 10) Press facing to inside. Press the SA towards the facing piece 11) Understitch facing – Stitch all around the neckline-through the  facing and SA close to seam line, but  NOT through the main garment piece. This helps the facing lie flat. Press WS's together

Alteraciones: Changing UP those Patterns

I've been working with
the alterations I've made over several years
On this tried-and-true pattern
To be sure the alterations are good ones
This pattern is out of print, but various
vendors have it for sale on the web

Progreso para octubre/October Progress

I'm  looking back at my plans for this month's sewing, to see how the actuals are coming along. Isn't that what we do when we want to see whether or not we're channeling our resources in the right direction and how our business is coming along? Sewing is not my business, it's my enchanting past time, but I like to feel that I step back and think sometimes, about whether or not my recreation energy is being well spent. The proof is in the pudding. Eventually I want to get some pretty, comfortable and useful clothes out of the time I invest with needles, pins and patterns. And I want to find that those are clothes that I spend a lot of time wearing, not attractive garments that just hang in my closet waiting for a special day to be worn.

Let's See How My October Sewing Basket  is Progressing .......

- 1.  Finish the basic much needed camisole I worked so hard on in September. Hooray it's done! I wore it under that new sheer yellow tee shirt I made a couple of months back, and immediately figured out that I need to stabilize the lovely broad braided shoulder straps (that idea came from the Jan Bones Lingerie book, which my library has), made out of spaghetti strap type tubes. So cute, and SO stretchy. I think I'm going to hand sew a piece of satin'y ribbon along the back of the straps and then try wearing it again.

- 2.  A new pair of pants, either light weight denim or beige twill - I've got 3 yards of each. I'll be using the same patterns I used for The Lady Wears Shorts, which I've got fitting pretty well. I'm taking a "Pants Construction" class at Cañada this month. 

ON HOLD Turns out this project is not due by the end of the month as I'd expected. I've put both the cutting out and sewing of these pants on hold until the end of this month because ...

Taking advantage of what Susan is learning
in the Fit Class
to get a really well-fitting blouse pattern,
That's something I don't currently
have in my pattern stash.
Vogue V8747

a) I'm learning a lot of techniques in my 4 week Pants Construction Class (it ends October 23) which will affect not only how I sew them but how I cut them out. The pockets for example will be cut with a leash that fastens into the waistband. We're starting in on waistbands this coming weekend and I have some questions about how to make my pants more stable in that zone, and how to better work with Petersham ribbon.  Better to wait on everything.
b) Sewing samples for my main sewing class, lingerie class and pants construction class seems to take an inordinate amount of time. I'm learning to enjoy cutting out and thinking hard about sample pattern shapes and techniques, but I'm surprised to find that I can spend 2-4 hours on just one sample, and we make several each week. Then sometimes I find I need to re do them. Now I know one reason why I never put the time in, to learn techniques before. The other reason is that it's just fun to sit down and sew up a favorite, tried and true pattern. That's something I probably won't do in October, but I am going to put on my list to do at least once in November.

- 3.  Trace, tissue fit and toile a very fitted princess-seamed Vogue blouse pattern. I'd like to say get it sewn too, but given time.... I'll be happy to just get going on this project.

IN PROGRESS I'm pleased to say that I've gotten going on this project. I've been working in sewing lab with my new buddy Susan. She's taking the fitting class I plan to take next fall, and we're putting her new knowledge to work.  It's taking a lot of energy just working out the fit, but it's going to be worth it to have a really well-fitting fitted princess-seamed blouse pattern. You can bet I've already got plans to sew that up in three different fabrics from my sta- errrr fabric inventory (!) once I get that pattern working. Here's what I've done with it.

a) Identified that I shouldn't try to fit the sleeve until I get the bodice, and it's resident armscye working with my body. I learned this by chatting to Kelly, an experienced Cañada Fashion Department class taker, who's often working in the sewing lab. Kelly told me to come and see her about my sleeve pattern once I've got the bodice in good shape. She's going to help me learn what to slash and where once the armhole area is working well for me. She also hinted at the possibility of a "cut-on gusset" once we do that. Lots of new things to learn

b) I traced, and cut out, the main princess-seamed bodice pattern pieces onto the tissue I use (medical supply paper, like the kind you sit on when you visit the doctor, only it's new and un-sat-on).I doubled all the pieces, as though I were cutting it out of actual fabric,  so that I could put it on like a full bodice for fitting. This included four pieces: bodice front, bodice side front, bodice back and bodice side back.

It was a little challenging figuring out where to leave, and how to cut, extra tissue paper versus just moving the tissue around with gaps and inserting gap-filling tissue paper as Susan fits the pattern to me. This is something I will learn over time.

c) Susan fitted the tissue to my body. We used colored marking pens to note where tissue seams had been joined, wide posit tape (great for removing without tearing) and many pins. 

One thing I learned was that no matter how obvious the results of fitting seemed at the end, I could have marked the results more clearly. Next time I will know more.

d) I cut out 3 of the 4 pieces in crummy fabric to test the bodice. I'm already concerned that I missed a place where I'm supposed to add a seam allowance, but I'll find out once I sew it up and put it on. Sometimes you just have to forge ahead. And the material is so yucky, I won't care if I have to chuck it and start over.

e) I need to review how to join princess seams. There's a funny, but familiar, big notichy shape on the side front  I just don't get. So I'll need to break down and go back to the pattern instruction sheet.

f) On Monday I plan to have that bodice toile/muslin basted up and ready to review with Susan in Sewing Lab.

- 4. IN PROGRESS- Start in on the next project for my main sewing class at Cañada - elastic waist linen pants

Whew! These have really been a lot of work. I decided to be very scientific about a capri elastic-waist pants pattern I've been using for maybe seven years. I think I've actually sewn this  pattern at least 20 times, altering both the fit and the shape of the leg. I've sewn them as capris, long straight leggers, a divided skirt and palazzo pants. 

I retraced the original pattern, which I'd damaged and shrunk with regular scotch-type tape and the iron (I figured out to use iron-able posit tape after I first began working with this pattern). Pattern weights from an obliging drawer in the Sewing Lab at school helped me to get the damaged spot straightened out enough to trace the whole piece. Then I retraced that original tracing and filed away my first careful, reconstructed pattern pieces, so I can always go back to the original without the pain and agony. On the second tracing I drew in the alteration lines I've made over the years, making notes in different colors so I could see which were the original pattern lines, and which were mine. I had a kind of shlocky heavy-paper version of the pattern I had been using, that I took these lines from.

Next I've begun working to determine if the alterations I made over time, using the scotche here and the schotche there method, to determine if these are the best alterations for the garment. This may sound tedious, but I think it will prove to be worth it. I took a pair of dark linen capris I found I'd cut out of the pattern and forgotten about (I also drew there lines in on my pattern in another maker color to ensure they matched my schlocky pattern lines), taped them to a window with light coming behind and used narrow posit tape and pins to find the actual grain line of the fabric. Then I used more of the same to create perpendicular lines at hip and around the widest part of my hips. After which I basted in white thread, which stands out against the dark fabric, along all 3 lines on the one pants  front where I had done this. I did the same with one back leg. 

Entonces - I then basted up the pants (without the in seam pockets) - just the leg and crotch seams. I plan to try these on in Sewing Lab, tie a piece of elastic around my waist, mirror check, and ask a buddy to see if they think the basting lines of white grain-check thread are hanging straight. Also the widest-point of hip line may tell me something. 

Amazing how long this all takes! The payback comes as I continue to use this pattern, which I also intend to use in combination with a pattern from the lingerie class to make tap pants.

- 5. IN PROGRESS I'd love to get at least one tee done, either one of my new Hot Patterns or another of the Stretch and Sew 333 tees I sewed for class in September, but that is a bit too much blue skying.

a) I cut out one of the Strech and Sew tees, though trying a different neckline version for it may keep me from getting it done as quickly as I might otherwise do.

b) I tissue traced my new Hot Patterns Weekender Sunshine top. 

Though I'm spending a lot of time in the sewing lab at school, I'm doing more sewing science than sewing construction. They don't call it a "lab" for nothing. It's great to be able to take advantage of the facilities and the people around me. If I'm going to take sewing classes, I want to learn as much as I possibly can. The techniques and knowledge of how to fit, plus improving the way favorite patterns fit my body, are going to stand me in good stead when I want to just sit down and zip on my machine.

Costume: The Queen of Hearts

The Queen of Hearts
Ready to Trip the Light Fantastic

Techniques: The Queen of Hearts already owned the ruched/shirred black bustier and tutu skirt. For the inset I cut a long rectangle of white costume satin and ran a gathering stick up both sides and two, closely spaced down the middle. Then I spent a lot of time trying to get the white satin ruching/shirring to mirror the black satin. Finally I had to just go for it. The red hearts are two sided. I pinned the white sating rectangle to mirror the sweat heart neckline of the bustier, then loosely hand stitched the white section on. After which, I hand stitched the hearts down. I expect to remove the entire inset in the future with a seam ripper, so I didn't go for a permanent meet up between the insert and original bodice.

Technique for the future: 

Those hearts didn't come out with crisp edges, eh? Well frankly in this case I kind of like the soft floaty,  imperfect, homemade look. These days, too many costumes roll off the assembly line for my taste. However, if I wanted to achieve a crispy look on this soft stuff another time, I think I would interface a similarly rounded and pointed edge form to one of the sides, then sew them up (all except for one straight shot on the right or left leg, then turn the joined sections right side out and stitch it up. In this case I didn't have to stitch the open edge up, because I was sewing the entire heart down to the white satin, so I just caught up the open edge then.

It's a Pressing Matter: Get Behind Me Goo!

It's not the Queen of Hearts
fault that I foreswore the
press cloth in my attempts to
make quick work of her
togs

I'm pretty sure I'm not the first sewist to trot out the old phrase It's a pressing matter, when it comes to ironing  So I surely do apologize if another sewing blogger or podcaster has used it as a major theme. The good stuff tends to stick in my craw, and I often think I've invited it myself. It really used to irk me is when somebody else used my good ones, (particularly at work!) and got all the credit. But it happens all the time. I've learned to accept it, and realize I probably do it myself.

I've been a little more focused on pressing because of my Fashion Sewing 110 class at Cañada College.  Rhonda and Kathleen made rather a point of remembering to use the press cloth to avoid sticky situations. That pretty much saved my iron a few weeks back when I mistakenly used 2-sided fusible instead of interfacing (I was in a bit of hurry and it looked the same to me). One of the sticky sides ended up on my press cloth and not the sole plate of my iron.

However I wasn't so lucky yesterday. In a hurry to get 3 just-turned-right-side-out red satin hearts for my daughter's Halloween "Queen of Hearts" bodice well shaped, I thought the iron, minus press cloth,  would help give them more definition. Well, it did. It also gave the iron a nice coat of sticky residue. Apparently the slickery coating on that cheap costume satin comes off mighty easily - in this case onto the sole plate of my iron.

Luckily, I remembered that Kathleen had mentioned she cleans the iron sole plates in class with that fine product "Goo Be Gone". I'm not the only person who doesn't always use the press cloth, it turns out. Luckily I own a bottle of Goo Be Gone Spray Gel. And, interesting to me - is it to anyone else? - I bought it at Menlo Hardware, a store that Kathleen (and her parents before her) owned herself for a long time.

My iron is shiny clean now. And the Queen of Hearts is ready to trip the light fantastic in a few weeks time.

Las Técnicas: In Praise of Continuous Stitching

I sewed these three hearts out of costume satin with a continuous stitch, a technique I'm trying to incorporate into my regular sewing repertoire. Continuous stitching is merely machine sewing where the sewist stitches merrily away on one section after another, without stopping to cut the threads away from the previously joined sections. 

Why bother?

1) Continuous Stitching saves thread

2) Continuous Stitching saves time

3) Continuous Stitching helps prevent needle jams

4) Continuous Stitching helps prevent my needle from coming unthreaded

Why not give this habit a try?

¿Por qué no? 

My October Sewing Basket

Last month I posted the list of sewing I hoped to get done during September. I normally only keep this list on my iPhone, but it was fun sharing it.

Herein....

1) What I'm planning to sew in October

2) What I got done in September.

1) What I'm planning to sew in October

- Finish the basic much needed camisole I worked so hard on in September. See notes below.

- A new pair of pants, either light weight denim or beige twill - I've got 3 yards of each. I'll be using the same patterns I used for The Lady Wears Shorts, which I've got fitting pretty well. I'm taking a "Pants Construction" class at Cañada this month, and the project is due by the end of the month. Well, that will keep me on schedule!

- Trace, tissue fit and toile a Vogue blouse pattern. I'd like to say get it sewn too, but given time.... I'll be happy to just get going on this project.

- Start in on the next project for my main sewing class at Cañada - elastic waist linen pants

- I'd love to get at least one tee done, either one of my new Hot Patterns or another of the Stretch and Sew 333 tees I sewed for class in September, but that is a bit too much blue skying.

2) What I got done in September
I didn't get absolutely everything done, but - I'm happy!

My September goals included:

         - One pair of green shorts. Done!

          - A cloche style cap, like the one I now wear almost everyday (It needs break and a bath!) . Refer back to "Chewing a Bun with Tuppence" (an earlier posting)Done!

Please check out both shorts and cap in this earlier posting.


           - One test pair of unmentionable nether garments! Done! NO PHOTO, they aren't very cute, but I learned good basic techniques in my Sewing Lingerie  class.
          
 - A mostly sewn buttercup purse (See my "Do You Like Butter?" posting) Done!
I've really been enjoying carrying this purse for the last couple of weeks. Isn't it cute?

I also completed the first project for my sewing class at Cañada, a Kwik Sew #333 tee shirt. No photo yet, but I'll post it. Of course I spent a lot of time on it because I was working on technique - not my usual sew and go mode. I included an embellishment I'd been meaning to try. I'll post more about that shirt soon - hopefully with a photo.

          - A beige lingerie type camisole to go under a very pretty sheer, burnt-knit, dressy yellow tee shirt I finished recently. (No, I can't take a photo of me in it because it would only look appropriate in the kind of establishment I don't patronize! You probably drive by them too.) Believe me, Ineed a camisole under that tee. Still in progress....

Man alive... This camisole has been a lot more work than I expected. I was pushing hard to get it done this evening, but I made a study committment  for my independent study work (apps development) to always put a minimum chunk of work in every day, and I like to keep those promises to myself. I should have that camisole ready pretty durn soon. It's crucial for wearing under that sheer yellow tee I made a month or two back, and I plan to sew one or two more sheer tees out of a couple of pieces of stretch lace I bought from fabric.com. So I really need that girl done. I picked up a couple of techniques while taking the Lingerie class that came in handy. They included: neck edges for v-necks, the baby hem, and plaited straps out of spaghetti straps (see the Jan Bones Lingerie book). I also drafted the pattern for the camp using the Jan Bones book. It was my first experience drafting from scratch. The front worked pretty well, but I made some errors in the back. Fixing and accomodating those errors added a good chunk of time to the project.

More time was eaten up because I made the cami  out of beige 2-way stretch knit (swimwear/dancewear type stuff). The regular presser foot grabbed the fabric a lot. also I was using a ballpoint needle, which I thought meant knits, but I guess it didn't. Finally, I switched to a needle that actually said "stretch", switched my presser foot to my 'teflon foot' and things went much more smoothly.